solo bikepacking in italy

twelve days of solo bikepacking in italy, where the days were long, the gravel roads were dreamy, the food was beyond exceptional, and well, I didn’t want the time to end. like any solid adventure, there was a mix of joyful moments where I would quite literally say aloud how is this real life in complete awe, while simultaneously pushing past discomfort to get to where I wanted to go. I came to italy with next to no plan, which, if I’m being honest, came down to the fact of not having the mental capacity to dig into trip planning as I was busy guiding running trips in morocco and trying to get ahead of my remote work for the trail running travel company I help operate so that I could enjoy my time on the bike. plus, whenever I did try to plan something, I let my indecisive mind take over. I’d be set on one idea, then hear about another area and scrap the first plan altogether, only to go back to my other idea and back and forth and back and forth. my “final plan” was to simply head to florence (knowing there was epic gravel roads to ride) and piece it all together when I was there.

so after I led another trail running tour in morocco’s atlas mountains, I made my way back to slovenia where I keep my gravel bike and bikepacking kit. as always, so grateful to the amazing families of the travel company I guide for, that let me store gear there. the constant logistics of organizing and storing my outdoor gear as a nomad is a full-time job! once I had my bike loaded and ready, I took several trains to reach my starting point in florence, italy.

completely enamoured by the beautiful city, I spent one night before heading out early the next morning to explore the infamous gravel throughout tuscany. famed for the incredible strade bianche (white roads), I came to understand why this region is so highly sought after by gravel riders. from rolling hills and patchwork fields, medieval hilltop villages that were always worth the big climb up to visit, unending and unmatched gravel, a myriad of colour from the bursting wildflowers, rustic farm houses and views that extended as far as the eyes could see.

for six consecutive days I pieced together different gravel routes around tuscany. I camped as much as I could, ate my weight in focaccia breads, felt the burn in my muscles as I became reacquainted with my cycling legs, basked in the long sunny days, while getting bounded by heavy rains the next. I stopped in every conad (local grocer) I passed for food resupply, sang far too loudly while alone on the bike, drank lemon sodas as if they were going out of style, and revelled in the joy of both witnessing and feeling the gradual changes of a place, all under my own human power.

as I made my way back to florence, I took a day to explore the city, feast on local cuisine, exalt in the simple joy of a laundromat and by total surprise, connect with my old university professor. I completed my bachelor’s degree in ecotourism and outdoor leadership back in 2016 and my old prof was in florence leading a university travel program. while reconnecting over lunch, he asked if I would speak to his eighteen university students about my passion-led life, so that evening I met with and spoke to his students about my life path after university. following my passions, my job as an international guide, unconventional living and travel, where I’ve been and where I’m going. it was such a spontaneous, yet serendipitous time.

the following morning, I continued pedalling north from florence. the days ahead would lead me to bologna, up to lake garda, riding west along the water’s edge, further north into the mountains towards bolzano, and finally finishing in innsbruck, austria. this section of my ride was even more unplanned. often, spending each night nestled in my sleeping bag, scouring over route plans, komoot, gaia GPS maps and more. it was both freeing to have no plan, but also a bit of a curse as someone who can’t always make up their mind. regardless, I really enjoyed getting to spend the time each night asking myself… where do I want to go tomorrow? during this section of riding, I really felt the change of landscapes from tuscany. from the rolling tuscan hills, moving through flat plains and farmland in the interior, towards the vibrant waters of lake garda, and so happily riding higher into the hills and surrounding mountains north through trento, bolzano and finally finishing in austria.

really, that’s one of the main things I love about bikepacking. you can cover enough ground in a day to feel like you’re getting somewhere, but also move slow enough to really take in your surroundings. waving to the smiling italian nonna perched out her window, feeling the burn in your legs as you climb up, up and up the long hills, savouring the taste of the many regional flavours, feeling every gust of wind, ray of sunshine or drop of rain (for better or worse), and noticing as the landscapes shift from open patchwork fields, dense forests, massive lakes to towering mountains. you’re more vulnerable and open to your environment and there is an immense beauty in it all.

following up from my previous blog post (you can read it here) - these personal trips have become such an essential part of my well-being, personal exploration, growth and life. while I’ve continued to venture down a path that allows my life to be in the realm of adventure travel full-time, taking time out of the work and guiding side of things to embark on my own little adventures, holds more meaning than what a single blog post could explain. if anything, this trip was a reminder to keep pursuing my passions and ensuring I’m living in a deep sense of alignment. and it’s safe to say, after finishing this trip, I’m doing exactly that.

twelve days of bikepacking,

1150kms ridden,

dozens of pages written in my journal,

too many focaccia breads consumed to count,

one tired and totally worked body,

and an overflowing spirit, heart and soul.